Before
I start I have to say that yesterday evening I changed my plans all
over again. When I arrived yesterday in the hotel I wanted to go to
Sapa in the North of Hanoi tomorrow. This is a place in the mountains
close to the boarder to China
with minority tribes. It has become pretty touristic, especially the
Sunday market. The way to get there is by the night train from Hanoi
and then a bus ride – the way back is the same. Pretty hard travelling
to be honest for two days of trekking, or even less. Okay, coming back
to my arrival to the hotel. I asked if they can book me the night
train to Sapa and the answer was, why I wanted to got there?
I
answered, because it is nice. The return answer was, that there is a
place also with rice terraces much closer and better to reach and there
are NO tourist there. Phu Long Natural reserve is the name and the
Lonely Planet only shows is on the map, but does not mention any
sentence about it – well done so I will have it on my own.
So
plans changed totally – I will start tomorrow a two day motorbike trip
to Phu Long reserve instead – I is really cool to change your plans on
a daily base just being flexible – never to know where the wind blows
tomorrow…
So
let`s start with the report of today. Thang was the man of today,
actually my motorbike driver. The plan was to find investigate the
surroundings her in Ninh Binh
We
started at Tam Coc the river that flows through three caves.
You are rowed by a lady and to my surprise she started quite normal but then started to row with her feet. Incredible, changing between bicycle pedalling mode as I called it and normal rowing mode – unbelievable. I had to try it on my own, because it looked to easy and check out the pictures to see how I looked – I did not even managed to row one stroke, nor was I by any means able to TURN the rows – so I stick to paddle with the spare paddle…..
The
rive is quite a tourist attraction – I was rowing aside Vietnamese
people singing and the little temple at the end of the 3 km river
stretch. It was quite idyllic though, but it got even better when my
lady asked me if I want to continue for a tip further 3 km upwards. I
agreed and this was the best choice of my life – I hade the river for
my own only the paddle strokes, the water splashing and the birds were
present together with that atmosphere of the misty weather great.
Then we went with the motorbike of the beaten tracks to Mua Cave,
a small cave. The cave is not really interesting, but what is
interesting is the temple on the hilltop, which offers splendid views
to the country side. This area is also called the dry Halong Bay
and when you seen the pictures you know why. Actually you could peer
down from the temple to the river where I before passed with the boat.

The
next stop was the Hoa Lu, a place where the an ancient capital once
was situated, protected by the limestone mountain, additional defence
walls were erected in-between the mountains the city was well
protected. Today all what is left over are two temples, though erected
in the 18th century, but still nice to visit.
After
a late lunch the final stop was Bai Dinh, which reminds me a bit of
Burma – it is no Budda Park, but a new erected spiritual centre with
the usual asian overkill in Buda sizes of xxxx tons – but see yourself –

currently an interesting congress is taking place there – I just
wonder what spiritual tourism is really meaning and if that is
sustainable, but the conference will find out for sure.

As
I had to take care during the day on the goat shit that is lying
around everywhere – this is the famous area of goat breeding – I though
I contribute a bit to the reduction of the population and had grilled
goat for dinner – a Ninh Binh speciality – bit chewy but tasty.
As
mentioned before I will be without wifi for the next two or three days
– I may stay one day longer in the mountains – not decided yet so
don`t expect a new entry before Saturday or Sunday evening – Tae care-
Markus
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